How Much Does a Handmade Kitchen Really Cost in 2026? A UK Buyer’s Breakdown
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How much does a handmade kitchen really cost in 2026? It’s a fair question — and it’s usually asked too late, after someone’s fallen in love with a style that doesn’t match their real budget, lead time, or spec priorities.
At Painted Kitchen, we design and manufacture shaker kitchens in the UK and speak to homeowners at every stage — from first sketches to “we’ve lived with it for a year now”. This post is a practical breakdown of what actually drives cost (and what doesn’t), so you can plan confidently and compare our prices like-for-like.
What “handmade kitchen cost” usually includes (and what it often doesn’t)
When people say “kitchen cost”, they can mean three different things:
- Cabinetry (units, doors, frames, drawers, hinges, internal storage)
- Worktops, sinks, taps and appliances (often sourced separately)
- Installation (and the hidden extras: prep work, electrics, plumbing, flooring)
This article focuses on the parts you can control early: the cabinetry decisions and the spec choices that make a quote jump.
The 7 decisions that move the price the most
1) The cabinet layout (number of units, not “kitchen size”)
Two kitchens can be the same room size and have very different cabinetry costs. The main driver is how many units you’re specifying — especially drawers, tall storage, corner solutions, and integrated appliance housings.
2) Door and frame detail
Small profile differences change the feel of the entire kitchen. If you’re deciding between a plain shaker and a more detailed beaded frame, review the ranges side by side:
- Simple range — plain shaker and frame
- Signature range — cocktail beaded frame
3) Drawers vs cupboards (and how many)
Drawers are one of the biggest “feel it every day” upgrades — but they also change the spec quickly. If you’re chasing value, decide where drawers genuinely improve life (bins, pans, crockery, food prep) and where cupboards are perfectly fine.
4) Hardware quality (hinges, runners, internal mechanisms)
Cheap hardware feels fine in a showroom. It feels very different after year two, when alignment shifts and “soft close” becomes “soft-ish”. Hardware is a durability decision, not a fashion decision.
5) Paint finish expectations (and what “touch-up friendly” means)
A kitchen that looks flawless on day one isn’t the goal. The goal is a finish that still looks good after real cooking, cleaning, kids, pets and guests. If you want a deeper dive on cost-saving without regret, see keeping the cost of a new kitchen down.
6) Worktops and sinks (where “upgrade spend” can make sense)
Worktops and sinks tend to be the most emotionally-charged choices — and they can be worth it, because you touch them constantly. But don’t let them hijack the plan. Set a cabinetry spec first, then decide where to allocate the “wow” budget.
7) Timing and logistics (lead times, delivery slots, sign-off)
Lead time isn’t just “how long it takes us”. It includes your own decision cycle, sign-off speed, and availability of delivery/installation windows. Use the delivery calendar early so you’re not forced into rushed decisions.
How to compare quotes without getting played by the spec
“Cheaper” often just means “different spec”. If you want to compare fairly, use three checks:
- Like-for-like cabinetry count: how many units, and what type (drawers, tall units, corners, appliance housings)?
- Like-for-like hardware: hinges/runners grade, internal storage systems, soft-close performance.
- Like-for-like scope: does it include panels, fillers, end panels, cornice/trim, and delivery?
These checks sit alongside our price match guarantee — the point is to compare properly first, then decide.
Value vs “cheap”: the line most people cross by accident
If you’re trying to land the best long-term value, aim for the spec that avoids the most common regret: spending on visible features while quietly downgrading the things that wear out first.
If you want the short version, start with getting the best value kitchens. For a sanity check on expectations, read how much should you spend on a new kitchen.
Deposits, sign-off, and what to prepare
To keep your project moving smoothly, you want your key decisions made before you pay a deposit: layout, door/frame choice, and the “must-haves” you won’t compromise on. Our ordering process explains the flow clearly.
Quick note on promos and “sales” expectations
Kitchen offers can be useful — but only if the spec is the right one for your home. If you’re trying to time a purchase around discounts, it’s worth reading are the January sales really sales to avoid planning decisions around marketing noise.
FAQs
Tap a question to reveal the answer.
Is a handmade kitchen always more expensive than a flat-pack kitchen?
Not always. “Flat-pack” vs “handmade” isn’t a clean price comparison — the spec matters more. A high-spec flat-pack (drawers, internal storage, premium hardware, integrated panels) can cost more than a carefully specified handmade shaker kitchen. The key is comparing like-for-like units, hardware, and scope.
What’s the biggest cost driver in a kitchen quote?
Usually the cabinetry count and unit types (especially drawers, tall storage, corner solutions, and appliance housings). Two kitchens in the same room size can have very different costs depending on how many units you’re specifying and how they’re configured.
Does choosing a more detailed shaker frame change cost much?
It can. Frame detail affects manufacturing time and finishing, and it often changes how people specify the rest of the kitchen (handles, trim, glazing, lighting). If you’re deciding between styles, compare the Simple range and Signature range early so your quote reflects your real preference.
How can I compare two kitchen quotes fairly?
Check (1) unit count and types, (2) hardware grade (hinges/runners/internal mechanisms), and (3) scope (panels, fillers, trims, delivery). Then use those details to compare properly — not just the headline number.